Deck pricing gets quoted as a single square metre rate far too often, and that rate almost never survives contact with a real site. Two decks of identical size can differ by tens of thousands of dollars depending on height, access, footings and the decking board itself.
Below is how we actually build a deck price, so you can read any quote — ours or anyone else's — and understand what you are comparing.
Typical square metre ranges
As a starting point for a straightforward, low-set deck on reasonably flat ground with good access, expect somewhere in the following ranges for a fully built deck including subframe, footings, fixings and finish.
- Treated pine deck: entry level, generally the cheapest surface but needs the most ongoing maintenance.
- Merbau or Tallowood hardwood: mid range, and still the best value for a natural timber look that lasts.
- Composite decking (Ekodeck, Infinity and similar): highest board cost, lowest long-term maintenance.
- Elevated decks, stairs, balustrades and pergolas are priced separately — they are structure, not decking.
What actually moves the price
- Height off the ground. Once a deck goes above about a metre it needs engineered posts, bracing and compliant balustrades, and often a building certificate.
- Footings and soil. Reactive clay, fill, rock or sloping ground all change the footing design and the labour to dig them.
- Access. If concrete, timber and tools have to be carried through a house or up a slope, the labour cost rises.
- Demolition. Removing a rotten deck, paving or an old pergola and disposing of it is a real line item.
- Subframe material. Treated pine, ExtremeJoist H4 and steel are not interchangeable in price or lifespan.
- Detail work. Mitred corners, picture framing, hidden fixings, integrated lighting, screening and steps all add hours.
Where the money goes
On a typical deck, materials are usually a smaller share of the total than people expect. The bulk is labour and time on site: setting out, digging and pouring footings, building a dead-flat subframe, then laying and fixing boards with consistent gaps and clean edges.
That's also where the difference between a deck that still looks straight in ten years and one that cups, sags and lifts is decided. A cheap quote is nearly always saving time in the subframe, not the boards.
How to compare quotes fairly
- Check the decking board is specified by brand and width, not just 'composite' or 'hardwood'.
- Check the subframe material, joist spacing and footing type are written down.
- Check whether demolition, waste removal and any certification are included or excluded.
- Check the fixing method — hidden clips, top-fixed screws or nails behave very differently over time.
- Check what finish is included: oiled, sealed, or supplied raw for you to coat.
Common questions
Is composite decking more expensive than timber?
- Composite boards cost more up front than most hardwoods, but they need no oiling or sanding. Over ten years the total cost of ownership is usually close, and composite wins clearly if you would rather not maintain it.
Why do deck quotes vary so much?
- Because the specification varies. Joist spacing, footing design, subframe material, fixing method and whether demolition and waste are included can change the price dramatically without changing the visible board.
Do you charge for a quote?
- No. We can give you a fast indicative price from photos and dimensions online, or come out and measure up for a detailed fixed-price quote on larger or custom decks.